First attempt at a custom 1/24 | Diecast CraZy - Discussion Forums for True Collectors

First attempt at a custom 1/24

Discussion in 'Custom Cars' started by rih7t, Jul 30, 2020.


  1. rih7t

    rih7t CraZy Rookie

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    Name:
    Ian
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    This was my first attempt at stripping and customizing a diecast (before and after pics below)- I’m not super happy with the decals I got off of eBay (pixelated, roof number is not white, etc) so I’m thinking about getting new decals and redoing it before I trim the overrun and seal it. Does anyone know a good place to get high quality decals? I’ve looked at Patto’s Place, but I’m worried shipping from Australia may be held up for a while with covid restrictions. I was hoping there is a good place in the US to buy from.


    D84E5495-D42E-487C-8752-312B8F26F107.jpeg AA57A7C7-4C11-4848-AF1D-28579E71153A.jpeg
     
  2. MOPARBOB

    MOPARBOB MoPaROrNoCaR CraZy Admin

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    My favorite cartoon as a kid and one of my all time favorite paint schemes... :)
     
  3. rh1no

    rh1no Mark Martin CraZy

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    Mike McCall
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    Congrats on your first custom! But be careful, it's contagious. If you haven't clear coated the car, the roof number will probably come off without much of a fight. If there are any other screenprinted Petty sheets that use that same number style (white with black outline/shadow, no background), you could just swap out the roof number. It's also very easy to buy crap decals. Lots of poor quality scans with poor print resolution. And very few aftermarket sheets that print white. Screenprinted decals, if produced, is the best option. My next choice is laser printed (including white), followed by a combination of inkjet printed with white underlays (if no other option is available). Mike's Decals generally has pretty good quality (various suppliers), and there are a few good custom decal printers out there, too... but you'll pay good money for them.

    Congrats on the first build, and keep it up.
     
  4. go3dalejr88

    go3dalejr88 You win some, lose some, and wreck some.

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    Levi Heller
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    Looking really good, keep going! Pattos seems to be the place to go and the shipping doesn't seem to be too delayed from what I have read...
     
  5. SadlerFan_38

    SadlerFan_38 CraZy Member

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    nice first go! As others have said, Mike's Decals is a great place. Other routes you can take is smhracing or post on Custom Racing Diecast Makers on Facebook. But I am not sure if Mikes or smhracing will have the ones you want. Is it a Winscals decal by any chance?
     
  6. rih7t

    rih7t CraZy Rookie

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    I ended up stripping it again and used decals from Mike’s Decals- they were MUCH nicer and a lot easier to apply. One thing I ran into- the Future wax I used to seal caused some of the decals to bubble up. It’s not noticeable unless you’re up close but does anyone know how to avoid that? Apply lighter coats I guess? Overall I’m really happy with how it turned out.

    35A9008A-0BFD-446E-9156-238E035CD88C.jpeg 6BD13117-BE92-4740-B912-4B7AA0AB365B.jpeg 4E9564B2-09FE-4523-894C-549250E1AF8B.jpeg 058FB79A-EC76-4753-88EF-3BBADD7354E8.jpeg
     
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  7. MOPARBOB

    MOPARBOB MoPaROrNoCaR CraZy Admin

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    One of my favorite BL schemes! Good that you got your practice in on a Winner's Circle donor rather than a more expensive ARC or Elite only to find you had the issues you did.
     
  8. rh1no

    rh1no Mark Martin CraZy

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    Nice job. I've only used Future for spot touch-ups, but I've heard a variety of success stories and failures, alike. Some airbrush it on, most use a foam brush. It's a lot like using a rattlecan clear in the respect that it may work perfect three times out of four, but that forth time is a train wreck... and you didn't do anything differently. That's just part of the process. Generally speaking, though, a heavy initial coat of any clear is going to end poorly. Keep building and you'll find the right level in time.
     
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