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Old 10-08-2009, 04:04 PM
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#1
MTruex56 is offline
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Default How do i make a custom

ok here is the plan

turn this into this with the help of this


so heres what i need to know... EVERYTHING! i have the car in two parts 1. the body 2. the chasis

so do i need to remove the windows/ deck lid/ hood/ roof flaps/ splitter? how do i get the small hood pins and windows and splitter braces back on?

what kind of paint do i use? regular spay paint?

how do decals go on?

what color do i prime?

how do i clear coat?

will the body color show up through the decals?

please any help would be awesome!
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:02 PM
Posts: 461 | Join Date: Mar 2009 | Last Active: 03-17-2010
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Default Re: i think ill try this

I haven't done a COT yet, but here are some general tips:

Make sure to use a metal etching primer, then a normal primer, then top coat. I forgot the etching primer and ended up with a couple of paint chips when I reinstalled windows. Luckily, nothing noticeable.

Removal of all windows and any plastic is necessary. Paint stripper will melt plastic.

Use white primer. I've heard many people say gray primer should only be used if your top coat is black, silver or gray. You can use regular can spray paint, be it model or automotive. If you can't find a good match, you can mix jar model paints and shoot it through an airbrush (both the yellow and blue in my Reut debut custom were done this way).

The hood pins can be reattached with a dab of super glue. Some hot glue would take car of all the windows and wing (for the most part I think windows tend to snap into place on COTs, just need a dab of glue to secure it).

Depending on how good the decals are, you may need two sheets for bleed thru on the white ones, especially with the dark blue on the back, probably even the blue on the rest of the car.

Decals are waterslide. You sit the decal in water for about 15-20 seconds and then wait for it to loosen from the backing. Then slide it into place on the car. Blot dry with soft cloth.

Clear coat can be either Future or rattle can. Just make sure whatever paint you use for the base coat is compatible with what you choose for the clear (either research or just ask).

That should get you started.
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:09 PM
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Default Re: i think ill try this

There is one option for paint that I used to use when I was building models. That's the use of fingernail polish. There are TONS of colors available. Even metallic. You just have to thin them out enough to go through an airbrush. And they look GREAT when dry as most of them have a sheen that can't be beat!!!












 
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:14 PM
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Name: Geoff
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Default Re: i think ill try this

heres another question to those of you who have done this,

is it worth all the time and aggravation? or should i just save my cash and pay someone to do it later, because this car is at the top of my list now since i have part of the sheetmetal coming to my house
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:21 PM
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Default Re: i think ill try this

You'll never know what you can do unless you try!!!!!












 
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:58 PM
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Default Re: i think ill try this

you can pay someone, but the satisfaction you get/have when the custom is done and looks great!! can't be bought at any price!! try it yourself!!! good luck and update on your steps!












 
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:01 PM
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Default Re: i think ill try this

a small piece of advice i can give is, i see the car you want to make is shined metal. you can ( after you strip the paint off the body) use a dremel to polish the metal to a shine.












 
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:48 PM
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MTruex56 is offline
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Name: Geoff
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Default Re: i think ill try this

ok i have the car all apart windows out, hood pins popped etc

i can't seem to get the wing off any hints? im afraid of snapping it off! it seems to be held on from 2 little plastic caps fro the inside, i have tried pushing on them with nails, screws, a tiny screw driver but nothing with budge them.



but heres whats up

i learned real quick a plastic baggie will be needed for all the really little parts!



i think im going to leave the splitter alone and just paint te whole thing blue since thats how it was on the real car and just get some silver paint and a small brush and paint them silver again, that way i dont have to go back and try to glue em'



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Old 10-08-2009, 06:53 PM
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#9
MTruex56 is offline
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Name: Geoff
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Default Re: i think ill try this

"metal etching primer, then a normal primer, then top coat"

is that automotive primer or is their a model primer? top coat means first application of paint correct?

also pattos offers the decals in water slide and peel and stick, what is easier, will the peel and stick have less bleed through?
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Last edited by MTruex56; 10-08-2009 at 06:55 PM.












 
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:53 PM
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Default Re: i think ill try this

Originally Posted by MTruex56;202368[B
][/B]
also pattos offers the decals in water slide and peel and stick, what is easier, will the peel and stick have less bleed through?

I can answer the decal question... Water slide is what everyone uses it real decals, peel and stick is basically stickers...
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